Tuesday 22nd July - A Missing Moises

Turned up to Spanish today to find our dear Spanish teacher Moises was absent. Our flamboyant replacement was good but nevertheless, I do hope Moises is okay

Monday 21st July - Back to the Grind

After a weekend of such joy, getting up this morning to my freezing cold, damp room was the hardest it's been so far.

Sunday 20th July - Viva Peru

Well, I thought yesterday was the best day so far but today has topped it. It was a quiet morning - we were all a little tired from going to 'party district' Barranco the previous night and taking full advantage of all the free Pisco Sours we were being offered to get us into the bars. But then, whilst sitting on the sofa, we could hear a band. Curiously, we pulled back the curtains and were greeted with the sight of a marching band in the opposite park blasting some sort of patriotic-sounding melody. Not wanting to miss out on all the fun, I wandered outside. But this was just a little taster of what was to come. I mentioned before about how excited Peruvians get for their Independence Day, which falls on 28th July, and how I went to an amazing parade in honour of it. Well today I also went to a parade - and it was bigger, better, and noisier.

Just getting started

At three o'clock I walked down to the main street that had all been shut off to cars. Hoardes of people lined the streets. Some of the front row people had come incredibly prepared, having brought their own little chairs and tables. I did manage to find quite a good spot though. It was very cosy, but at least I could see.

One of the floats

So, the extravaganza gets started with Chinese Dragons, all colours of the rainbow, snaking their way up the road. Then the drums start beating and the trumpets sound. In the distance I could see the marching band moving closer, and I knew I was in for a treat. Standing still for 4 and a half hours being squashed in from all sides by an excited public all vying for the best viewpoint doesn't sound like much fun, but the show was enthralling. There was everything - bands, dancers, floats, singers, people dressed as toothbrushes, people dressed as Avatars. The fire-fighters and their fire engines made an appearance, as did the Serenazgos (Peru's answer to a police service that can't make arrests - but they do also have Police too). The music, lights, singing, dancing, and cheering from the crowd didn't let up until the last moment. Seeing people waving their little flags and shouting 'Viva Peru' (Long live Peru) kind of made me want to be a Peruvian myself. And once the parade was over and everyone was suitably excited and in a great mood, the jam-packed streets were treated to a firework display of massive proportions (the firework 'waterfall' was my personal favourite). VIVA PERU!

Finishing with a bang

Saturday 19th July - Yay for Independence Day

Today was possibly the best day so far, although it started off...not so great. For the first time this trip the three of us got the Metro bus. It kind of works like the London Underground. We walk onto a little island in the middle of the motorway and stand behind an electric glass door. Every few minutes a bus pulls up, as many people cram onto it as can possibly fit and away it goes. Sounds like a pretty neat little system right? It is, but when this is factored in with the Peruvians' seemingly pathological love for being packed into tight places, it makes for a strange scene. People are piling in, and piling in, and piling in. And piling in. Even when there are about three people hanging out of the doorway, there'll be 3 or 4 other people who clearly don't have the time to wait 5 minutes for the next bus, who are pushing and shoving every which way to squeeze into the 2mm gaps left between the current passengers (for obvious reasons, we decided this wasn't the bus for us and hung back for the next one). They are truly skilled because they did manage to do it. So then the automatic doors on the bus swing shut in a smooth motion that crushes anyone inward who is still unfortunate enough to be still standing in the doorway.

The next bus was emptier. No places to sit, but it was emptier. We bounded in like excited children glad for the opportunity to breathe, not anticipating that the middle of a carriage away from any doors or windows was the very last spot we should be. Barely being able to move or breathe (I'm not exaggerating here), what seemed like the longest journey of my life ensued. I have never had a panic attack before but pretty sure I came close. My heart was beating at some crazy rate, and my breathing became as shallow as a puddle. My mind started creating all kinds of crazy scenarios and I began to sweat. Fortunately though, at work the day before I had written three articles about anxiety attacks and how to combat them. Being scared that I was exhibiting precisely the signs I had been writing about, I put everything into practice, just about managing not to have one.

Eventually, we got there. The town was unbelievably beautiful. I'm pretty sold on anywhere that has a beautiful building and this place has them in spades. The fun didn't stop there though. On hearing some upbeat music, we followed the sound and what we found did not disappoint. The most fantastic parade was making its way through the town. People were lining the streets watching a swirl of colour and glitter dance by. The atmosphere was electric. Each dance group had a completely different but equally impressive show to put on. Jumping, singing, clambering on top of one another - how it is humanly possible to have the energy required to perform a full show almost every 5ft I have no idea, but apparently it's possible. The national pride was clear to see. Flags were hanging from almost every shop window, the red and white colours could be seen everywhere you looked. The traditional multi-coloured Peruvian dress was also as ubiquitous, and the dances ranged from traditional tribal to modern salsa-type, some even telling historical stories. They really go in for Independence Day in a big way here. It isn't even until next week!

Friday 18th July - Raspberry Fields

Was pleased to learn 1 out of 24 of my articles has been published. And now the world has to wait no longer for my expertise in the field of raspberries. You're welcome world!

http://www.herbazest.com/herbs/raspberry

Thursday 17th July - Atlantic City

With exercise books in hand, we three keen students made the perilous walk to our Spanish school after work, passing the Atlantic City casino. With a waterfall either side of the grand entrance doors and so many flashing lights both inside and out it makes you feel like you're in Vegas, it really does seem like a whole other world in this ramshackle city.

Wednesday 16th July - Jaunt to the Bank

Opened our shiny new Peruvian bank accounts today. Could have been signing my life away for all I knew. Haven't quite reached the stage of being able to read complicated legal documents yet.

Tuesday 15th July - ¡Hola Señorita!

So, today my housemates, Mariah and Marie, and I finished our 10 hour day before heading out the office door for our date with Peruvian hunk Moises (and by date, I mean Spanish lesson, and by Peruvian hunk Moises, I mean our lovely, smiley, middle-aged Spanish teacher with oodles of patience and very little English). But, lovely as he is, he is also a liar - after insisting numerous times during our first lesson that Spanish is easy, I'm still yet to progress from 'Me llamo Jessica'. The overwhelming urge to launch into German whenever he asks me a question in Spanish (which, at the moment, I'm only understanding after A LOT of pointing, hand gestures, and contorted facial expressions) is something I´m still struggling with. However, onwards and upwards, as they say - by the end of my time here I am hoping for a level of fluency to rival my English.

Monday 14th July - Mullein

Beginning of my second week as a Copywriter. Today learned that there's a plant called mullein, which from what I can gather is pretty much a miracle cure for anything. Will have to try it next time I have a cough.

Sunday 13th July - Burnt Retinas

The weather still has not improved. I now haven't seen the sun for a total of two weeks. When we meet again burnt retinas are a distinct possibility.

Saturday 12th July - Inca Fun

Visited an alpaca market - where they were selling unfortunately not the alpacas themselves, but clothes made from their wool. I thought I'd died and gone to heaven when I stroked one pair of super-soft slippers. Afterwards, we were in a market mood so we also visited the Inca Market (well worth a look if you happen to be in Miraflores), and were delighted with the array of rainbow-coloured wares that were on offer. Have made a resolution to buy a Peruvian-style bag and pair of boots while I'm here, and possibly a poncho.

Friday 11th July - Bussing to Barranco

Have survived my first Peruvian bus ride, and was pretty relieved to make it out alive. There were a few hairy moments when I said a mental goodbye to everyone I hold dear, but someone must have been watching over me, because I made it. I have learned that there is no elegant way to travel on Peruvian public transport - being packed into the limited space available in the contraption, stood shoulder-to-shoulder with my fellow man at a proximity normally reserved for intimate lovers whilst grabbing onto the pole above my head for dear life, just silently hoping my deodorant had been effective enough to withstand the Lima humidity. Trying to support myself with one arm just wasn't enough I quickly learned, and had to hope my second armpit was also reasonably hygienic as I lifted up my arm to avoid the other being wrenched off. To my surprise, this was not sufficient either, and by the end of the journey I was facing the front of the bus, both hands clutching the metal pole, bum out as far as I could thrust it, and my feet extended as far in front of me as they could get. I'm pretty sure I resembled a constipated monkey.

After having been flung around the inside of a rusty tin in a white-knuckle ride that would challenge the hardiest of adrenaline junkies, my colleagues and I eventually alighted in a district called Barranco - apparently THE place to be on a Friday night. A pretty lively district, I wasn't disappointed. Spent the evening in Ayahuasca  - an amazing bar in the most beautiful historical house. Drank cocktails and had my very first experience eating beef heart - and it was delicious!

Thursday 10th July - Britishisms Galore

Nearly the weekend and the end of my first working week here! We interns have been invited out for work drinks tomorrow. Have also deepened my knowledge of oestrogen fluctuations and almost feel like a traitor to my English roots having to write 'estrogen' at work - we have been instructed to use no 'Britishisms', which is harder than it sounds when my fingers are flying over the keyboard, leaving me with red, squiggly lines adorning the page. Feel weirdly defensive every time it tells me 'colour' is not a word.....

Wednesday 9th July - Living in Lima

Fortunately, today was a lot more interesting workwise. Instead of championing the use of herbal remedies for vaginal dryness, was instead championing the sweet red raspberry fruit, before going on to write about the differences between spearmint and peppermint. Feel like I've never been as healthy as now - although I'm sitting all day and probably giving myself eyestrain and storing up blindness for the future, am drinking upwards of 3 green teas a day. And they say office work is dull!

Still getting used to the 10 hour days - pretty brutal, but like the crazy party animal I am I managed to stay up til 9pm yesterday.

And now I've got to know Peru a bit more I would like to end with a few fun facts:

1) It is SUPER cheap. And when I say cheap, I mean cheaper than the cheapest thing you've ever probably encountered (unless of course you've been to Peru yourself). Do whole grocery shop for the week and you could end up with change from a 20 pound note (or the equivalent in Peruvian soles). Not too shabby.

2) It NEVER rains in Lima apparently. And I believe it. Was told it wasn't necessary to bring an umbrella (even though it's winter here at the moment), but being English, of course I couldn't imagine a world sans rain, so I did. But haven't seen a drop of rain so far.

3) Buses here are CRAZY. The word 'sardine' doesn't cut it - there are always so many people packed onto the unstable, questionable-looking contraptions that I'm surprised they can breathe. The drivers are constantly cutting up traffic, tooting their horns and ignoring policeman. And they crash frequently too I hear. Didn't die of shock from that one, I must admit.

Tuesday 8th July - Menopause

Came home today from the office feeling somewhat of an expert on menopause and its symptoms. Pretty scared for my future and what middle age holds but on the flipside, I'm pretty sure I'm now super-prepared. Also feel I wrote the phrase 'vaginal dryness' way too many times today. Not sure what tomorrow will hold. Hopefully something a little more upbeat....

Monday 7th July - A Day in the Life of a Copywriting Intern

First day at work as a Copywriting Intern in Miraflores. Not much writing was actually done today as my two flatmates and I (also interning) were just supposed to be getting our bearings. Office is beautiful. Feel suddenly so professional and grown-up!

Sunday 6th July - Pisco Sour

Woke up feeling the effects of staying out til 4 last night drinking copious amounts of Pisco Sour. But I figure, would be pretty rude not to try the national Peruvian beverages right?

Pisco Sour: Base liquor 'pisco', which is made from grapes. Apparently pretty gross when drunk solo, so limes, syrup, egg white, and cocktail bitters are all added to create a little cup of joy. In fact, this drink is so revered that Lima even holds a whole festival in it's honour. What a lucky cocktail!

Saturday 5th July - Miraflores

Suffering from a tiny bit of jet lag, crashed around 5pm yesterday after getting to know my new flatmate (not because she was boring, but it was 11pm in ole Blighty!). BIG mistake. Was up at 4am this morning greeting the world with open and very untired arms. Am sure I will pay for this later.

On the upside, have discovered a little gem in my new surroundings - the beautiful shopping centre Larco Mar built into the clifftop overlooking the beach. Have also spotted the local surf and paragliding schools. I intend to be a pro at both before going back to England in December.

Friday 4th July - Touchdown

Touching down in beautiful Lima was a welcome moment after 24 hours of travelling hell. However, wasn't quite so sure that Lima was so keen to welcome me after having had little access to anything resembling a shower or clean set of clothes in that time. Feel like I've been paid back for such shoddiness with fear of death though - if there is some kind of rules-of-the-road traffic system going on I'm not yet aware of it. Was relieved to make it to my new flat alive.