Tuesday 22nd July - A Missing Moises

Turned up to Spanish today to find our dear Spanish teacher Moises was absent. Our flamboyant replacement was good but nevertheless, I do hope Moises is okay

Monday 21st July - Back to the Grind

After a weekend of such joy, getting up this morning to my freezing cold, damp room was the hardest it's been so far.

Sunday 20th July - Viva Peru

Well, I thought yesterday was the best day so far but today has topped it. It was a quiet morning - we were all a little tired from going to 'party district' Barranco the previous night and taking full advantage of all the free Pisco Sours we were being offered to get us into the bars. But then, whilst sitting on the sofa, we could hear a band. Curiously, we pulled back the curtains and were greeted with the sight of a marching band in the opposite park blasting some sort of patriotic-sounding melody. Not wanting to miss out on all the fun, I wandered outside. But this was just a little taster of what was to come. I mentioned before about how excited Peruvians get for their Independence Day, which falls on 28th July, and how I went to an amazing parade in honour of it. Well today I also went to a parade - and it was bigger, better, and noisier.

Just getting started

At three o'clock I walked down to the main street that had all been shut off to cars. Hoardes of people lined the streets. Some of the front row people had come incredibly prepared, having brought their own little chairs and tables. I did manage to find quite a good spot though. It was very cosy, but at least I could see.

One of the floats

So, the extravaganza gets started with Chinese Dragons, all colours of the rainbow, snaking their way up the road. Then the drums start beating and the trumpets sound. In the distance I could see the marching band moving closer, and I knew I was in for a treat. Standing still for 4 and a half hours being squashed in from all sides by an excited public all vying for the best viewpoint doesn't sound like much fun, but the show was enthralling. There was everything - bands, dancers, floats, singers, people dressed as toothbrushes, people dressed as Avatars. The fire-fighters and their fire engines made an appearance, as did the Serenazgos (Peru's answer to a police service that can't make arrests - but they do also have Police too). The music, lights, singing, dancing, and cheering from the crowd didn't let up until the last moment. Seeing people waving their little flags and shouting 'Viva Peru' (Long live Peru) kind of made me want to be a Peruvian myself. And once the parade was over and everyone was suitably excited and in a great mood, the jam-packed streets were treated to a firework display of massive proportions (the firework 'waterfall' was my personal favourite). VIVA PERU!

Finishing with a bang

Saturday 19th July - Yay for Independence Day

Today was possibly the best day so far, although it started off...not so great. For the first time this trip the three of us got the Metro bus. It kind of works like the London Underground. We walk onto a little island in the middle of the motorway and stand behind an electric glass door. Every few minutes a bus pulls up, as many people cram onto it as can possibly fit and away it goes. Sounds like a pretty neat little system right? It is, but when this is factored in with the Peruvians' seemingly pathological love for being packed into tight places, it makes for a strange scene. People are piling in, and piling in, and piling in. And piling in. Even when there are about three people hanging out of the doorway, there'll be 3 or 4 other people who clearly don't have the time to wait 5 minutes for the next bus, who are pushing and shoving every which way to squeeze into the 2mm gaps left between the current passengers (for obvious reasons, we decided this wasn't the bus for us and hung back for the next one). They are truly skilled because they did manage to do it. So then the automatic doors on the bus swing shut in a smooth motion that crushes anyone inward who is still unfortunate enough to be still standing in the doorway.

The next bus was emptier. No places to sit, but it was emptier. We bounded in like excited children glad for the opportunity to breathe, not anticipating that the middle of a carriage away from any doors or windows was the very last spot we should be. Barely being able to move or breathe (I'm not exaggerating here), what seemed like the longest journey of my life ensued. I have never had a panic attack before but pretty sure I came close. My heart was beating at some crazy rate, and my breathing became as shallow as a puddle. My mind started creating all kinds of crazy scenarios and I began to sweat. Fortunately though, at work the day before I had written three articles about anxiety attacks and how to combat them. Being scared that I was exhibiting precisely the signs I had been writing about, I put everything into practice, just about managing not to have one.

Eventually, we got there. The town was unbelievably beautiful. I'm pretty sold on anywhere that has a beautiful building and this place has them in spades. The fun didn't stop there though. On hearing some upbeat music, we followed the sound and what we found did not disappoint. The most fantastic parade was making its way through the town. People were lining the streets watching a swirl of colour and glitter dance by. The atmosphere was electric. Each dance group had a completely different but equally impressive show to put on. Jumping, singing, clambering on top of one another - how it is humanly possible to have the energy required to perform a full show almost every 5ft I have no idea, but apparently it's possible. The national pride was clear to see. Flags were hanging from almost every shop window, the red and white colours could be seen everywhere you looked. The traditional multi-coloured Peruvian dress was also as ubiquitous, and the dances ranged from traditional tribal to modern salsa-type, some even telling historical stories. They really go in for Independence Day in a big way here. It isn't even until next week!

Friday 18th July - Raspberry Fields

Was pleased to learn 1 out of 24 of my articles has been published. And now the world has to wait no longer for my expertise in the field of raspberries. You're welcome world!

http://www.herbazest.com/herbs/raspberry

Thursday 17th July - Atlantic City

With exercise books in hand, we three keen students made the perilous walk to our Spanish school after work, passing the Atlantic City casino. With a waterfall either side of the grand entrance doors and so many flashing lights both inside and out it makes you feel like you're in Vegas, it really does seem like a whole other world in this ramshackle city.

Wednesday 16th July - Jaunt to the Bank

Opened our shiny new Peruvian bank accounts today. Could have been signing my life away for all I knew. Haven't quite reached the stage of being able to read complicated legal documents yet.